
The St. Mary's County Oyster
Festival takes very seriously the
cooking of oysters and this photo
shows Elynne Davis of Leonardtown
with a dish of her prize winning
entry into the annual oyster
cook-off with the Royalty, King
Oyster and Princess Oyster.
ST. MARY'S TODAY photos
By
ELIZABETH M. PIAZZA
Capital
News Service
ANNAPOLIS - From the time he was a baby in diapers picking clams on his
father's boat Puddin, 41-year-old
J.R. Gross has worked on the water.
"When I first started - 10, 11,
12-years-old, that was pretty much
the boom of it," Gross said. "We had
more to do, oysterin' and clammin' -
the market was better and there was
a lot more of us."
Gross refuses to quit what he
calls a way of life, even though a
dwindling economy and a struggling
blue crab fishery are threatening
the livelihood of watermen
throughout Maryland and Virginia.
But for now, Gross is among a
number of watermen hired as part of
Gov. Martin O'Malley's economic
mitigation work project, which uses
displaced watermen to help restore
the bay.
Watermen have been hired by the
Department of Natural Resources to
clean off the Tolley Point and
Sharps Point oyster bar sanctuaries
in the Severn River, the Broadneck
reserve oyster bar in the Patuxent
River and the Evans bar in Tangier
Sound. The project began Nov. 17 and
runs through Nov. 21.
They are cleaning bars that have
been covered by silt and sediment
and preparing them for baby oysters,
called spat, to be planted in the
spring.
The hope is that the baby oysters
will survive and reproduce while
cleaning up the water. Oysters are
crucial to the bay's health because
they act as a filter and provide a
habitat for other species.
The work mitigation project is
not all about oysters. Many watermen
will also be working on the land in
trail and road maintenance along
with other forest management
practices in state parks and state
forests.
"Anyone who's [oystering] now has
got to love it," said 63-year-old
Calvin "Pee-Wee" Matthews, who owns
the Miss Suzy. Matthews has been a
waterman for 40 years and the two
have worked alongside each other
since Gross started.
Just as the number of watermen
have dwindled statewide, so too have
the watermen in Gross's family. When
he started, he worked with two
uncles and at least 15 cousins.
Today, he is the last.
Both Gross and Matthews hope the
program will help revitalize the
dying oyster industry.
We're killing two birds with one
stone, said Larry Simms, president
of the Maryland Watermen's
Association. We're giving watermen
work to supplement their income lost
from the crabbing regulations and
helping DNR [The Department of
Natural Resources] to clean up the
bay.
Simms was quick to point out that
this is not a handout program and
that watermen do not want a handout.
The hope is they will reap the
long-term benefits of this program.
"It's a good program, it really
is," said Gross, who stopped
harvesting his own oysters to help
out even though it means he will be
making half of what he would if he
were working for himself. "It's not
about the money for us, it's about
trying to get the bay back to where
it needs to be."
Over the years, as the industry
has shrunk, Gross dabbled in pile
driving and boat carpentry, but he
always gravitated back to the water.
When he started out, most of his
money was made from clamming.
"Then the clams went and they
went completely," he said. "That put
more pressure on the oysters." As
the oyster population began to
decline, more pressure was put on
the crabs as watermen turned to
crabbing.
Working together, Gross and
Matthews have witnessed their
livelihood disappear. They've seen
good productive bars silt over and
have witnessed declining seafood
sales.
Gross, who also owns JVE Seafood,
has watched the 20-25 bushels that
he would catch and sell each week
dwindle to seven or eight.
Even during tough times, Gross
and Matthews refuse to stop
oystering. A friendly rivalry has
developed over the years and each
day the two would compete to see how
many bushels they could catch or how
fast they could catch their quota.
Their story is not unique as the
struggle to save the oyster has
become a vicious cycle. As oysters
have been harvested, there have been
fewer of them to clean the water and
the increasingly polluted water has
made it difficult for oysters and
other species to survive.
"I'll be oysterin' until the last
oysters are caught - I'll drop dead
on that boat," said Gross. "You
can't get away from it - it's part
of you." |